Anyone who enjoys Mexican cuisine but yearns for a level of sophistication will find solace in Centrico.  Renown Chef, Food Network star and cookbook author Aaron Sanchez has partnered with acclaimed restauranteur Drew Nieporent to create a haven for sublime expressions of traditional Mexican dishes.

The establishment, located in the heart of Tribeca, features a wrap-around terrace, wall-to-wall windows, and a spacious dining room. The ambiance is more low key than your typical Mexican bistro.

A hammered zinc bar along the wall serves up margaritas and other cocktails. Centrico’s best attributes, however, are the open kitchen and the chef who occupies it: Mr. Aaron Sanchez. The place is far from snobbish, but it exudes a classiness that warrants more than just street style tacos; and indeed, Centrico delivers.

What makes Centrico exceptional is its inclusion of recipes from many of Mexico’s states, rather than one region: corn tarts with salsa from Michoacan, seafood frittata from Veracruz, slow roast suckling pig from the Yucatan. In essence, it’s a “Melting Pot” of Mexican gastronomical diversity.

The menu features traditional comfort food such as fresh guacamole with tres salsas, it also puts a twist on classic dishes. The Ceviche del Dia with Mahi Mahi is a welcome departure from the standard tuna or shrimp, adding a touch of Cuban influence. As someone who loves rock shrimp tempura, the Camarones y Pozole is a must try; instead of being deep fried, the rock shrimp are sauteed. The creamy ajillo chile sauce is the perfect marinade.  The Tostadas de Jaiba is a zesty blend of lump crabmeat, avocado, and chipotle-lime aioli. Of course, no Mexican meal would be complete without sweetbread, which is Sanchez’s specialty. The Tacos de Lengua, which are filled with surprisingly tender tongue, and The Birria al Estilo Jalisco, or braised short ribs seasoned with ancho chillies, are also excellent meat dishes. The Pescado del Dia is Sea Bass, which is served three ways; I order mine a la parrilla, which means grilled with tres salsas. Although the preparation is simple, the freshness of the ingredients make the dish delicious. Dessert is coconut flan with spicy mango salsa and churros served with guava salsa and chocolate sauce.

Sanchez and Nieporent have done a spectacular job combining the laid back downtown vibe and traditional Mexican dining to create Centrico. Although the place’s aesthetic, especially its high ceilings, are classic Tribeca, the perspective that chef Aaron Sanchez brings to each dish adds contemporary flavor. 

His mom, legendary chef Zarela Martinez, should be proud. And if cooking
is in Sanchez’s genes, we won’t be surprised if his son (his wife gave
birth recently), follows in his footsteps.

CENTRICO is located in Tribeca at 211 West Broadway, New York, NY 10013. T: 212-431-0700
www.myriadrestaurantgroup.com/centrico/index.html

Aaron Sanchez