Traditional Argentinian food is fairly easy to come by, but no one does it quite like Alma 33. From their Florentine Chef Enrico Primarti to Richard Lusardi – an owner who doubles as bartender – it is clear that everyone involved in creating the flavorful dishes and unique cocktails works hard to ensure that guests taste the tremendous care put into everything they make. And we’ve never had a more cordial, attentive hostess than co-owner and Lusardi’s fiancee Jessica Cohen.
Until a decade ago, West 8th Street in NYC was known as a bohemian mecca; today, the vibe is much different. Cheap pizzerias have opened in spaces once occupied by head shops, and the musicians and artists replaced by yuppy types. The opening of founder and owner Richard Lusardi’s aptly named Alma 33, may just mark the beginning of a new revival on the landmark street.
Alma 33 opened this past December, in a place with a history as colorful as its dishes. Once home to a club called 8th Wonder, the new kitchen in the past served as a stage that played host to the likes of Jimi Hendrix. To pay homage to the performer, a painting of him (courtesy of Jessica’s grandmother) adorns a wall near the back of the restaurant. The piece is a quirky accent to the cozy feel that the wood floors and soft creme curtains give the place.
Cool artwork isn’t the only thing Jessica has brought to Alma 33; her welcoming smile and exuberance make us feel right at home on this Tuesday night. As she explains, while we enjoy our specialty cocktails- her recommendation is Las Uvas De La Ira (a refreshingly sweet blend of bushmills, muddled grapes, raw sugar, apple juice, and lime) – the establishment is very much a product of her and Richard’s blood, sweat, and tears.
As a former employee of Windows of the World and part of the opening team for Craft, “Richard has helped make so many people successful”, she says, “it was time he did it for himself.” Considering the spectacular team he has, including chef Enrico Primarti, it seems as though karma has come back around for Richard.
Enrico Primarti adheres strictly to the ethical code of the artist; he performs to his best ability, no matter what kind of night it is. “If a scallop gets burnt, we don’t serve it. It doesn’t matter if it’s a quiet night during the week or a busy Saturday night.” His Florentine roots have had a significant influence on the menu. The most blatant example is the fact that there is pasta on the menu, but hints of Northern Italy can be tasted in other dishes that would typically be categorized as traditional Argentinean.
Italian and Argentinian cultures are both very meat-centric, which explains why Primrarti, who descends from a family of butchers, fits perfectly at Alma 33. His thorough knowledge of meats is exemplified in the Tabla Del Alma, a $16 assortment of fresh cold cuts and cheeses that would easily cost $35 at any other establishment in the area. Also impressive is the Mollejas, a delicious sweetbread in a fennel puree which he transformed to taste more like what its name implies than an unusual part of a cow. A must for anyone visiting Alma 33 is the salmon tartar or Taratara De Salmon; no matter how many times you’ve had it, it’s pretty much a guarantee that you’ve never had it like you will here. Not only is the salmon amazingly fresh, it’s flavored with smoked green apple, shaved fennel, and avocado.
Having discovered Primarti’s specialty -he’s a man that knows how to cook sweetbread six or seven different ways- it only seemed logical that we’d order the Parrillada as an entree. The dish is a carnivore’s dream, comprised of skirt steak, sweetbreads, morcilla (aka blood sausage), and chorizo argentino.
The Branzino marinated in red pepper sauce is full of flavor; the dandelion and red onion salad are perfect compliments, and the grapefruit adds a burst of citrus flavor.
Jessica insists that we try the Ostiones, and although we’re reaching capacity, we’re more than happy we do; this dish of pan seared shrimp-crusted scallops is the highlight of our banquet. We are surprised to find out that the celery puree consists of little more than celery and a dash of truffle oil, which in Primarti’s opinion goes well with just about anything.
By the time we finished dessert, which included a spongecake with strawberries and cream and a mango chutney, we felt as though we’d known Jessica, Richard, and Enrico for years. The warmth of its creators and staff, including our server, Alex, comprise Alma 33’s rich soul, as does a simple rule: fresh food, simple preparation.
Alma 33 is located at 33 West 8th Street, New York, NY 212-380-7158 www.almanyc33.com