Nothing beats a hangover on a cold
Sunday morning like a nice spicy bloody Mary. Pan
American’s Queen Mary,  an organic
version of the classic beverage is an even better option. Just one of the many
reasons to do brunch at The Pan American in New York’s Nolita.

In
addition to making him an expert in the sourcing of fresh, local ingredients,
executive chef Harry Stoehr‘s upbringing on a Wisconsin farm brings an innately
American flare to the Latin inspired cuisine served at The Pan American. Co-owner
Fernando Riquelme‘s experience as General Manager of Rosa Mexicano and founder
of Agua Dulce is the perfect complement to Stoehr’s hand and brings a modern
flair not only to the brunch menu but the dinner menu as well. Experiencing the
latter was the purpose of my visit.

One
would never have guessed when walking through the clear glass doors that The Pan
American had only been reopened for one month, after a fire caused it to
temporarily shut down. The place is small but bright, splashed with shades of
lime green, yellow, and turquoise that blend to create a retro-tropical vibe.
The music alternates between classic rock and salsa, paying homage to artists
both north and south of the border.

Pre-meal, kale chips and crispy carrot chicharones are set
on the table that taste so much like authentic bar snacks that I forget they’re
both vegan and gluten-free.

The grass fed Angus Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio
arrives as tender yet paper thin slices marinated in a garlic vinaigrette. The Wild Salmon appetizer is exceptional, consisting of amazingly fresh smoked and
house cured morsels.

For entrees, we order the Local Duck Breast, served with a
creamy quinoa and pineapple gooseberry glaze that beats just about any holiday
dinner I’ve ever had, and Wild Striped bass marinated in a red wine reduction
with a painstakingly prepared celery root puree on the side.

Dessert was the
Tocino del Cielo, a firmer, less custardy version of traditional flan drizzled
with rum syrup and served with caramelized bananas.

The Pan
American’s marriage of North and South American flavors makes it a unique,
versatile neighborhood staple. In addition to being a chic yet comfortable
dinner spot any night during the week, it is the ideal “before and
after” weekend spot. Its proximity to the Lower East Side makes it  perfect
for a pre-barhopping Saturday night dinner as well as a recovery brunch the
next morning.

The Pan American – 202 Mott Street, New York, NY 10012 – 212 925-9225 www.thepanamnyc.com