Only a
true luchador could thrive amidst the rubble
of the Second Avenue subway construction of the Upper East Side. Yet Cascabel,
which moved only nine months ago to a coveted corner spot on 80th street, has
established itself as the go-to spot for Mexican street-style cuisine. A warm,
friendly place with youthful charm and the best tacos in the city.

In
keeping with the casual theme, counter service is available, complete with flat
screens to keep patrons entertained while they wait. But despite it
being the World Series, baseball isn’t the only sport these guys care
about. Sitting on shelves nestled between the tables are dozens of Lucha Libre
figurines, and splashed on the wall is a mural depicting the masked wrestlers.

Co-owners David Chiong and Todd Mitgang were brilliant to join the local
ingredient, local beer movement that so many hipsterized establishments have
taken to, but Chiong reveals that the real genius behind the taqueria are his
kids; their love of tacos and Lucha Libre are what inspired the theme. He
wanted to create a place where parents could pick up their kids from school,
run in and grab tacos. But while they do offer mini tacos for children,
Cascabel’s real draw is the big kids’ menu.

Although
it’s a weeknight, Cascabel is packed. The crowd is diverse in age, and despite
it being crowded our server is attentive and patient; particularly when the
woman seated at the table next to us asks, “What’s a quesadilla?” We
start off with some margaritas. The basil
watermelon has just the right amount of sweetness, and the pomegranate hibiscus is also excellent.
All margaritas are served up or on the rocks because, as Chiong explains, he
and Mitgang didn’t want Cascabel to become one of those Mexican places that’s
known for its frozen drinks. After tasting their food, I don’t think they have
anything to be worried about. 

For
starters, we try the guacamole with
chips, both of which are exceptionally fresh, and the sweet potato fries. Although I normally pour ketchup on fries with
reckless abandon, I use Cascabel’s with delicacy, as it is no ordinary dipping
sauce; their Chipotle ketchup is
aged 2-3 weeks and has a spicy kick to it. Next is the Cangrejo y Maiz Frito, a tasty crab cake comprised of blue crab,
corn, fresh salsa, and piquillo pepper aioli. By the time we’re finished with
these, I’m ready for another drink, and what better to complement tacos than
beer? I order the Kelso, a Brooklyn
Lager, from the list of locally brewed beers.

We chose four different types of
tacos, all stuffed generously. At $8.50 for two tacos, prices are very
reasonable; higher than your typical Chinese/Mexican takeout place, but lower
than most other places on the Upper East Side.

My favorite are the Lengua, braised veal tongue with spring
onion, garlic oil, and serrano chili, and the Carnitas, slow roasted berkshire pork butt with pickled red onion
and roasted chili de arbol. Desert is flan
and bite-sized churros, paired with
a spicy, rich hot chocolate like
nothing I’ve ever tasted.

After
dining Cascabel, it is evident why it is named after a pepper whose seeds
rattle around inside of it; the establishment is full of Mexican flavor, and
it’s buzzing with activity on most nights. Although I plan on taking advantage
of Cascabel’s delivery service, I will be sure to return for the full
experience.

Cascabel
Taqueria East
1538 Second Avenue, New York, NY 10075-0677 (212)
717-8226 www.nyctacos.com