It’s no secret that Japanese culture and
American culture have had a longstanding fascination with one another; Zutto
perfectly intertwines the laid back style of dining that is popular in Japan
with the sophistication of a New York City tapas restaurant. The establishment,
which opened thirty-one years ago as the area’s first sushi place, transformed
into its current incarnation five months ago.

Its classy Tribeca vibe
distinguishes it from the typical St. Mark’s place ramen eatery, but the large
wood table in the center, which on this Friday night is playing host to a group
of early-thirty somethings celebrating a birthday party, and its inviting bar
area gives it an almost pub-like coziness. The extensive sake and beer list,
not to mention it’s shochu (Japanese vodka) program, promises a perfect
beverage to complement each of the dishes on the menu.

While the dishes are clearly Japanese, each
comes with a little twist; the edamame, for example, is grilled, rather than
boiled, and served with sea salt. This is thanks to New York bred chef Chef
Joshua Smookler, whose Jewish and Korean heritage makes him as unique as his
cooking style.

His French culinary training is evident in just about everything,
including the mouth-watering, incredibly juicy pork-belly with miso-mayonnaise
and short rib steamed buns that on the surface resemble the classic American
slider. The East and West Coast Oysters are fresh and surprisingly meaty.

Since
Zutto’s roots lie in sushi, we feel obligated to try one of their special
rolls. The triangle shaped Tribeca Roll with Spicy Tuna has been a staple of
their menu since they opened, and when we try it we understand why. As is
standard with izakaya style dining, we finish with ramen; we opt for the chef’s
favorite, Seafood Ramen teeming with shrimp, clams, enoki mushrooms, and wakame
(seaweed). From the ramen topping menu, we choose shitake mushroom and
vegetables. The caramelized brioche with grilled bananas, which features
homemade vanilla ice cream that tastes like the real thing yet has a texture
almost as light as whipped cream, is the grand finale.

Prices are reasonable, and the down-to-earth
atmosphere makes it a perfect addition to the neighborhood. Thanks to the vision
of Chef Smookler, Zutto has has been recreated into a unique eatery where one
can be equally as comfortable entertaining clients or stopping in for a beer
and a snack with a date. We suspect that this place will quickly become a
favorite of sake and beer lovers alike, and will remain so for another thirty
years to come.

Zutto Japanese American Pub  77 Hudson Street (between Harrison and Jay), New York, NY 10013 Tel. 212-233-3287     www.zuttonyc.com